Features
- Stapler drives 3/4- to 1-1/2-inch staples with caps; applications include installing Tyvek, tar paper, and foam-board insulation
- Adjustable depth guide
- Lightweight, dureable aluminum housing weighs only 4.7 lbs
- Includes oil, hex wrench, 1000 caps, 1000 staples, carrying case
- 7-year warranty
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Editorial Reviews:
Amazon.com
A strong blast of wind can set you back to square one if you've just spent the past few hours wrapping new construction or a house about to be sided. You know that the holding area of a staple isn't great, but a 1-inch-diameter plastic cap on the staple gives it superior holding power. Bostitch's cap stapler fires 18-gauge cap staples into tar paper, felt paper and foam insulation sheets like nobody's business, keeping the wrap right where you put it. Depth of drive adjustments are tool-free, a nice feature when you're 30 feet above the ground. It's surprisingly light, it loads like a dream and lacks nothing in the power department. This is one of those tools that only does one thing, but boy, does it do it well.--Kris Jensen-Van Heste
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Customer Reviews:
Average Rating = 4.5
Total Reviews = 8
[4 Stars]: Way better holding power than hammer tacker staples
I bought my stapler used to build a garage. I'm a Mechanical engineer by day, so this review is targeted at the weekend warrior who likes having the right tools for the right job.
What I like.
-It takes a good tug to tear tar paper or house wrap. The caps are not flat but slightly cupped, thus the entire outside ring presses down on the paper spreading the load away from the staple puncture points ( Stress riser ) which is the starting point for most tears.
-It is super easy to change between the Contact trigger and Sequential trigger (bostitch part # G1302700). The stepped trigger pin has a flange on one end and a groove for a small O-ring on the other. Remove the O-Ring and pull the pin. On my unit I removed the factory Contact trigger (black) and replaced it with the gray sequential trigger for safety and to solve a not fully seated staple issue ( see don't likes) - Yes it does slow things down but as a non pro, safety trumps speed. ( if you do change triggers, take a screw and fasten it into your carry case in case you need it later.)
-It comes with a carry case. A pet peeve of mine is that most other Bostitch nailers and staplers don't. Case is 15.5" wide by 17.5" tall by 6.5" deep.
-The 18 gauge staples hold really well in OSB especially compared to hammer tacker staples. ( Don't even try to pull them out, it is easier to rip off the cap then drive what is left of the staple in with a hammer. )
-Loading the caps. With 100 on a string you just drop the stack in, pull out the center core and away you go.
WHAT I DON'T LIKE
-If the gun is not resting flat on the surface or if you try to run at rapid speed "bump firing" just like using a roofing nailer the staples will end up not being flush ( sit up to 1/4" high ). I have 2 theories on why this is happening.
-First, the outer diameter of the stapling head is 1.8", so if the gun is not flush with the surface the center stapling point will be high.
-Second the cap actually sits 5 to 6mm above the work surface which places the tip of the blade and staple guide 8.5mm (~3/8") above the workpiece, My theory is that if you bump fire, the gun has some forward motion which cause the piston blade to slip off the staple. The solution is to go slow, or install the G1302700 Sequential trigger)
-While I like having a case, it is poorly designed. It seems in order to support the handle properly you need to have a package of caps. Also there is a small bottle of oil, but it sits with the cap pointing down, so if it leaks...
-The Magazine was designed to hold just one string of caps, so you have to wait until you run out or have less than 5 or 6 left before an entire stack of 100 will fit.
OTHER COMMENTS.
-This a relatively expensive tool to buy and operate compared to a hammer tacker. - A factory unit comes with 1000 staples and caps. Once gone it costs ~$30 with tax to buy another 1000 pc kitBostitch SBCAPS 1000 Caps for Cap Stapler and Nailer+Stanley Bostitch SL50351G-1M 1-Inch by 5/16-Inch 18-Gauge Staple, 1000-Piece. That's $0.03 per trigger squeeze compared to $0.002 for a hammer tacker driven staple. Even if you rent a cap stapler, rental plus a single package of staples and caps will cost more than buying a hammer tacker. So for single job projects, it's up to you and your budget.
-The caps are 2.5mm thick, which is about the same as a standard 3 tab roofing shingle. This means that if using 3 tab shingles you can see bumps where the caps are. With Dimensional shingles however the surface is irregular, so bumps are much harder to spot. -If you are wondering if this tool could be used in place of a roofing nailer the answer is no. The caps would be too close to the edge of the overlapping shingle which would prevent them from sealing. I personally recommend using Dimensional shingles if doing a a home project because they also hide any row to row placement irregularities.
- Overall I am happy. If buying for personal use, I strongly recommend ordering the Sequential trigger both for safety and placement control.
[5 Stars]: well worth the money
First used these cap nailers when working for someone else. Now my business never hand nails. The caps and staples are a little more expensive, but the time saved pays for itself double. You can felt roofs in half the time. Cap nailed felt won't rip out from under you feet on steep pitched roofs. Great for tyvek too. Now everyone borrows mine. Getting ready to buy another for the company. MOney well spent, and great time saver.
[4 Stars]: a word of caution
This is a solid tool. I have had a Bostitch framing nailer for years and it has always been reliable. So far, this cap stapler seems on par with that.
Here is the word of caution: The caps are pretty thick with a ridgid edge, like a sixteenth of an inch. I have a feeling that the design of this cap stapler had to work around Hitatchi patents. One of the concessions might have been the cap loading mechanism which appears to count on substatial edge-thickness of the caps.
The down side of these thick caps is that if you are using the cap stapler to hold up a vapor barrier on wall that you are going to put sheet siding on, the caps are so thick on the wall studs that your siding may be warped when you put screws through. They really are that thick. On a sheet rock application I had to shim the studs out to compensate for the cap thickness to get the wallboard straight.
Also, it is very difficult to staple caps on the inside edge of a stud unless the bay is wider than the height of the stapler. The safety mechanism doesn't let you angle them in very effectively.
So over all, the tool is solid, but it's use to you may limited by some fundamental design features.
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